Spraying fruit trees in spring before and after flowering

Proper maintenance of the garden and timely spraying of fruit trees in the spring from pests and diseases will help summer residents to get a generous harvest of berries and fruits.

Spring garden treatment

With the advent of the spring season and the awakening of nature, the activity of tree pests is activated: they eat tender buds and young leaves.

Timely pest control is a guarantee of a generous harvest

Caterpillars and bugs suck out plant juices, causing irreversible harm. The infield is short of harvest, the death of fruit trees is possible.

Process spring garden, performing the following procedures:

• whitewashing of boles;
• digging around the borehole circles - habitats of harmful insects;
• spraying shrubs and trees.

Early treatment is appreciated due to the lack of ovaries and fruits, where toxins can accumulate.

A rich assortment of biological and chemical products is available to effectively influence pathogens. But most gardeners prefer to dispense with folk methods.

Essential spring procedure in the garden

It is useful for beginner gardeners to orient themselves when they spray trees in the spring in order to divide the spring care of the plantings into several periods. The approximate timing of spraying fruit trees in the spring season is distinguished:

1. Until mid-March. Gardeners worry about eliminating parasites that have wintered in the cortex, twisted leaves and plant debris until the buds awaken. Untimely processing of a tree is fraught with consequences for the harvest.
2. April - 1 and 2 decades. At this time, buds are actively forming. It does not hurt to sprinkle trees with growth stimulants to accelerate development and prevent ovaries from falling off. In April, plants can become infected with a fungal infection. Using proven tools will solve the problem.
3. Until May 15th. Dissolution of buds, flowering of trees and bushes, the appearance of ovaries. Hard time for fruit crops, because high vulnerability to diseases. Summer residents will certainly observe the state of foliage and branches.
   

   Spring garden calendar

   The occurrence of spots or a change in color will require the establishment of reasons and urgent protection of plantings.

Bacterial burn of fruit trees, control measures

If young branches dry out on the plants, a milk-white exudate appears, which turns brown in the air, the fruits are mummified, it is a disease. In case of a bacterial burn of fruit trees, control measures and success are determined by the stage at which phytoball disease is detected and therapy. The drugs used (from simple to radical) depend on the degree of damage:

1. The detection of the first symptoms is accompanied by the removal of the branches and their burning. They process the place of cutting with copper sulfate at the rate of 100 g of funds per 10 liters of water or 0.7% with iron sulfate, spending 70 g per 10-liter bucket of liquid.
2. Azofos (5% solution) is effective, antibiotics: 50 μg / ml each - Rifampicin, Streptomycin, Gentamicin, Chloramphenicol; 20 μg / ml - nalidixic acid, Kanamycin. Dilute the ampoule / 1-2 tablets in 5 l of liquid. Dosages are sufficient for 8-10 young seedlings. The best time to process the trees is May-June.
3. If the disease manifests itself during the budding period, the garden is treated three times with Tetracycline and Streptomycin (for 10 liters of fluid 1000 units) with an interval of 4-5 days.
4. Gently process the tree with Bordeaux liquid (1%). Excess vitriol is the cause of a burn of foliage. The ratio of spraying is 7-8 times with copper-containing agents (0.5-0.7%). Also used is Abiga Peak. 5 treatments are carried out with a concentrated solution: 0.3-0.4% - for apple trees, for pears - 0.4-0.6%. Spraying the tree is effective at the beginning and during flowering and at the end.

Preparation of Bordeaux mixture for spraying

5. With a large lesion, individuals uproot and burn it. A similar procedure awaits plantings in a 5-meter radius, despite their healthy appearance. The tourniquet is in place in order to get rid of the infection and not to spread it in the country. Tools used must be sanitized with formalin or carbolic.

A bacterial burn is easier to prevent than to treat. Take preventive measures:

• Combat potential sources of infection: wild hawthorn and fruit trees, uprooting them near the garden plot;
• systematically spray insecticides on the garden to kill pests and reduce the risk of introducing microbes from the outside;
• regularly inspect the top of the tree, leaves, branches and buds - diagnosing the disease at an early stage will help to defeat it.

How to deal with scab

The following symptoms indicate scab on fruit trees:

• light green traces on young leaves that become smaller by autumn and darken without treatment;
• unripe fruits on a tree;
• leaf fall at the end of August;
• swelling of tree bark, cracking and peeling;
• cessation of growth by diseased shoots and death.

The disease affects almost the entire aerial part of the tree.

Scab on apple and pear

Chemical spraying, which is appropriate in the beginning or middle of the spring season, before the swelling of the buds, if there is a stable plus temperature, is opposed to phyto diseases. The second time sprayed at the stage of budding. Then they process it when the tree fades or the crops are harvested. The condition of the tree determines the procedure.

Successfully struggling with scab the following means:

1. Bordeaux mixture. Spray the tree with buds and in the phase of the "green cone". If necessary, reprocess after flowering. Perform 1-3 manipulations during the season. The solution is successfully used against moniliosis and spotting on pome plants.
2. Baktofit. During the growing season, 3-4 tree treatments are performed.
3. Abiga Peak. 4 sprayings are carried out with a fungicide solution (0.4%) for the summer season.
4. Agate-25k. The biological product is harmless to humans, beneficial insects and animals.

Alternative methods are effective at the initial stage of the disease. Useful spraying with mustard powder. The solution is prepared on 10 l of lukewarm water, where mustard diluted in a small amount is mixed.

Experienced gardeners recommend using potassium permanganate in the fight against scab. Often, after processing, small small spots remain on the leaves, which will not harm the tree and disappear imperceptibly.

For spraying, a salt solution and herbal infusion of horsetail are used.

Flowering and spraying trees

Before budding, the trees are treated from the codling moth, scab, spotting. Experts advise using 70 g of Karbofos, which is added to 10 liters of lukewarm water. Is it possible to spray trees during flowering? When blossoming flowers, spraying the garden is prohibited. Planting care is reduced to the destruction of weeds and cultivation.

Boric acid for a healthy crop

The exception is boric acid, which is used to treat bushes and fruit trees at the rate of 15 g of the drug per 10 liters of water.

How to spray trees after flowering

Gardeners are interested in how to spray trees after flowering. After the petals fall and the ovary is formed, the plantings are sprayed to acquire resistance to phyto-diseases.

Do not forget about the destruction of ticks that overwintered. The activity of the pest is manifested at the end of flowering. They fight a parasite with a mixture including:

• colloidal sulfur (70%) - 80 g;
• tar soap - 100 g;
• water - 10 l.

Spraying is carried out in dry weather. If necessary, reprocess. The main thing is timeliness. Potassium salt and urea - this is what is useful to treat trees after flowering.

Urea in spring treatment

Urea is a universal fertilizer that feeds the soil with nitrogen, helps out in the battle with pests of the garden. Urea spraying of trees and shrubs in spring is a reliable and safe prevention.

The crown is sprayed when the air temperature is +5 ° C. Before the fruit buds open, hibernating insects are inactive and can be processed.

Fruit trees are sprayed with a solution that is prepared from 600 g of urea per 10 liters of hot liquid. The consumption of the drug - for 10 m² of garden you will need 2.5 liters of dissolved urea.

Productivity is characterized by spraying fruit trees that were ill or were attacked by parasites last year.Urea will protect against:

• scab;
• monilial burn;
• didimelle.

A urea solution inhibits the development of bacteria, which lose the ability to reproduce. Early spraying prior to the spread of infection is appreciated.

Urea, or urea

To protect the trees from the disease, it will be necessary to dilute 0.5 kg of granules in 10 l of liquid. The suspension is suitable for spraying opal leaves before winter, to shelter trees and their root system from frost.

Blue vitriol and spraying trees

Copper sulfate is used in cultivating a garden plot at any stage of fruit tree vegetation. Only at the flowering stage, the processing of trees is prohibited.

The following copper sulfate concentrations are:

1. Burning out. The proportion of copper sulfate in the solution is 3-5%. To prepare the disinfecting liquid, 300-500 g of potassium sulfate powder are diluted in 10 l of water. The solution is used to disinfect soil on unprotected beds or in a greenhouse, to eliminate mold on wooden structures. The incineration solution is not used for processing crops.
2. The treatment and prophylactic composition contains copper sulfate (0.5-1%). The mixture is prepared from 10 l of water, into which 50-100 g of copper preparation is mixed. The solution resists fungal infections: anthracnose, spotting, coccomycosis, scab, septoria, curly, rot. Copper sulfate conducts the treatment of wounds on the trunks and processes of the tree.
   

   Blue vitriol in the garden

3. The feeding and prophylactic mixture includes copper sulfate in a volume of 0.2-0.3%. To make a suspension, you need 20-30 g of powder in a 10-liter bucket of water. The use of the composition is appropriate if symptoms of copper starvation of trees are manifested: chlorosis of foliage, twisting of tips, strong tillering. The drug is used as a preventive measure for spraying the garden during the summer season.

How to Resist Garden Pests

Spider mite

Spider mites on trees live on the underside of the leaf, sucking out the sap. Necrosis is formed on the upper part of the leaflet in punctured places - specks of dying cells of yellow, whitish or brown color. The colony of pests resembles plaque on the wrong side of a leaf.

To control pests, use the chemical method. When treating with acaricides, one cannot do without a sprayer and respirator, protective clothing and gloves to minimize the risk of intoxication. Use herbicides approved by the Rosselkhoznadzor:

• Sunmight and Apollo;
• Flumayt and Nisoran;
• Oberon and Floromight.

Precautions for spraying trees with acaricides

Among gardeners, recipes for herbal decoctions, infusions for spraying infected trees from spider mites are popular:

1. Dandelion. Prepared from 0.5 kg of chopped herbs, which is added to 10 l of water and insisted for 4 hours.
2. Calendula. 400 g of raw material are mixed with 4 l of liquid, incubated for 5 days.
3. Datura. For the broth you will need 1 kg of dried grass (you can replace it with 3 kg of fresh), which is poured with 10 liters of boiling water. Stand 24 hours
4. Celandine. A pinch of dry grass is poured with boiling water, insist a little.
5. Garlic, onion. It will take 200 g of husk per bucket of liquid, which is allowed to infuse for a day.
6. Yarrow. 500 g of dry raw materials brew 10 l of water.

To defeat the bark beetle

If bark beetles are wound on pears or apple trees, this is signaled:

• oval or rounded openings on the crust - flight moves;
• heaps of brown or white wood flour near the moves;

Apply insecticides from bark beetles that penetrate deep into plant tissues after flowering:

• Confidor Extra;
• Arrivo
• Bitoxibacillin;
• Pirinex.

With deep penetration of the bark beetle deep into the trunk, syringing is used. The method involves the introduction of a chemical syringe into the air holes:

• Tanrek;
• Confidor Maxi;
• Calypso.

Injection of the solution is accompanied by a hardening of the holes with garden varnish.

Extrusion method

To prevent the invasion of bark beetles on the garden plot, preventive measures are observed:

• timeliness of cleansing and proper formation of the crown of fruit trees;
• removal of trimmed branches;
• conducting preventive spraying with insecticides after flowering of pears and apple trees;
• uprooting and burning of affected trees;
• adjustment of the regime of watering and replenishment of fruit trees;
• whitewashing of skeletal branches and tree trunks;
• keeping the bore circles clean.

DIY hunting belt for trees

DIY hunting belt for trees refers to effective pest control products that first go down to pupation and then climb up the tree in search of food:

• whiteflies and apple blossoms;
• weevils and ticks;
• aphids and caterpillars;
• bukarki and goose.

There are varieties of hunting belts:

• dry
• poisonous;
• sticky.

Dry hunting belts

The sample is easy to make in several ways. The simplest device is a funnel tape. The design is similar to a funnel with a retracting effect. The pests that crawl into the hole will not crawl out of there. Homemade is made simply:

1. Take a paper or cardboard sheet, whose thickness is 15-20 cm, wrap around a tree trunk at a height of 0.5 m. It turns out a skirt or a cone-shaped funnel with a hole upside down. The inlet neck for insects is wide, the end is narrow.
2. The top of the skirt is tied with twine or covered with clay / plasticine.

Dry hunting belt

Poison trap

The fastening of the poisonous trapping belt for trees falls at the foot of the trunk. Chemicals cannot penetrate the roots and enter the crown. The belt provides 100% efficiency: pests that climb inside, die from toxic fumes. Ideal for apple trees - blocks the path of caterpillars to fruit. Manufacturing technology:

• take a flap of paper, padding polyester, burlap, spunbond with a width of 20-25 cm;
• impregnate the material with an insecticide and attach it to the tree trunk at a height of 0.5 m from the ground to obtain a skirt;
• to prevent the weathering of poison, the top of the belt is additionally wrapped with a film.

Sticky hunting belt

The belt is used together with other traps, but sometimes set separately. He copes well with ants, bugs, caterpillars. For Velcro traps you will need:

Sticky trap

• Kraft paper covering the tree trunk around the circumference (width - 20-25 cm);
• non-drying glue, tar / tar, with which the side of the belt is smeared;
• fixing the trap with the adhesive side up and glossing over the possible passages below and above the adhesive trap belt.

Spraying the garden in early spring will help summer residents get a rich harvest of berries and fruits. It is important not to miss the processing time and use suitable herbicides, biological products or folk remedies.