Clivia Flower - Home Care and Growing

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Many flower growers in their collection of indoor plants include clivia (lat. Clivia) - an evergreen herbaceous perennial belonging to the Amaryllis family.

Origin and appearance

Clivia flower comes from South Africa.

Clivia in the pot

This plant reaches a height of 60 cm, has leathery tapeworm leaves growing by fan from a basal rosette, there is no real stem (some species have a short false stem). The main feature of clivia is its root system: it is a transitional form from rhizome to bulb.

During the flowering period, produces a peduncle, on which up to 50 funnel-shaped flowers are placed in the form of an umbrella. 6-7 varieties of this plant are known, breeders are working on the creation of new varieties.

Important! Not all flower growers know that clivia sap and rhizome are poisonous and can cause (except nausea, vomiting, salivation, and gastrointestinal upset) paralysis or collapse.

The most famous varieties of clivia

Clivia Gardena

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Lat. Cliviagardenii in the natural environment is distributed in the Transvaal (South Africa). In indoor conditions it usually grows up to 50 cm high, leaves are long, up to 4 cm wide. In winter, produces a peduncle up to half a meter long, which houses 10-15 bell-shaped flowers.

Clivia is beautiful

Lat. Clivianobilis comes from the Cape of South Africa. It differs from other varieties by a small height (up to 30 cm), xiphoid leaves up to 6 cm wide. Peduncle up to 50 cm with fifty funnel-shaped flowers of orange or light pink hue.

Clivia cinnabar

Lat. Cliviaminiata, other names - Vinota cinnabar and Clivia Miniata, place of birth - Natal province (South Africa). Reaches half a meter in height, the leaves are belt-shaped from 3 to 6 cm in width.

Clivia miniat

From February to May, a 50-centimeter peduncle is crowned with 15-20 large funnel-shaped red flowers.

Home Care

Clivia home care does not require any special skills from the owner.

Top dressing

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To look good, especially during the flowering period, clivia needs regular top dressing. They begin to make them already in the first year of life once every two weeks (alternating organic and mineral fertilizers).

An adult plant is fed only during the flowering period.

Important! Nitrogen postpones flowering, potassium, on the contrary, can cause bloom more profusely.

Location and lighting

A pot with clivia is best placed on the eastern or western windows of the house and provide it with enough space. On the north side, the plant needs to be highlighted; on the south windows, clivia needs to be slightly tinted.

Watering

Waterlogging of the soil adversely affects the plant. Therefore, it is watered only after the soil in the pot dries, excess moisture from the pan is removed immediately. A constant excess of moisture can cause root rot.

Note! For irrigation use soft water without chlorine three to four degrees warmer than room temperature.

Clivia does not require high air humidity (40-50% is enough), but the dust accumulated on the leaves adversely affects the flower.

Rest period

Clivia should bloom, then cut the peduncle and leave the plant alone for 80-90 days. During this period, top dressing is stopped, watering is carried out 1 time in 10-12 days, the air temperature is reduced and the light intensity is reduced.

At the end of the period of "hibernation", the plant is returned to its usual place, having arranged for it a warm shower before it, it is fed and sufficiently watered.

Important! The dormant period must be stopped in a timely manner, otherwise the peduncle will grow crooked and weakened.

Possible growing difficulties

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Clivia is an unpretentious flower, its care is simple, it is attacked by various diseases and pests.

Disease

The cause of brown spots on the leaves is sunburn, it is better to shade the plant.

Rotting or brown formations at the tips of the leaves indicate damage to the roots during transplantation or excess moisture.

Diseased plant

In such cases, watering is stopped until the soil in the pot is completely dry.

Pests

On clivia, the appearance of shields or mealybugs may occur.

Signs of affection with the scab:

  • sticky coating on the leaves,
  • the appearance of dark spots of growths (adult parasites).

The scabbard is removed mechanically (pests are washed off with a soap swab) and the plant is treated with systemic insecticides.

A mealybug is characterized by the appearance of a white, cotton-wool-like coating on the leaves. A small colony of parasites is removed mechanically with a wet gauze swab.

Shield

Numerous colonies are destroyed by weekly spraying with insecticides.

Leaf problems

Leaves may turn yellow when:

  • the natural process of replacing old leaves with new ones;
  • insufficient or too plentiful watering;
  • lack of nutrition.

Why clivia does not bloom

Some gardeners, several years after planting, ask themselves: clivia does not bloom, what to do in this case.

The flowering of an adult plant is hindered by a lack of nutrition or lack of dormancy, which must be arranged in the fall and winter.

Transplanting the plant into a very large pot is also the answer to the question of why clivia does not bloom, since all the forces go into filling the pot with roots.

Important! From the moment of cutting the flower stalk, clivia is not moved from place to place and the pot is not rotated - such actions reduce the flowering time and reduce the number of flowers.

Sometimes the question arises: clivia, having good care at home, why it does not bloom by 2-3 years of life. In this case, an unscheduled dormant period is arranged for her: the plant is kept for 20-30 days in a poorly lit place at a temperature of 15-16 0 ะก.

Breeding methods

Not everyone knows clivia, and how it reproduces. Reproduction is possible, both by seeds and by lateral shoots (children).

When transplanting an adult plant, lateral shoots with several roots are carefully cut off from it. Slices sprinkled with powdered coal powder. The roots are dried for 30 minutes, then transplanted into a small pot. Look after, as well as an adult plant, but the air temperature is maintained at 1-2 degrees higher and watered less intensively. Young clivia is placed in a well-lit place, where there is no direct sunlight.

Seed cultivation

Clivia seeds are acquired or grown on their own.

Important! Seeds germinate only if they are sown immediately after harvest. Storage of seeds greatly reduces their germination.

Seeding procedure:

  • 1) Soak the collected seeds for a day before swelling.
  • 2) The swollen seed is sown at a distance of 2 cm in a peat-perlite mixture. Perlite can be replaced with sand or turf.
  • 3) The container is closed with a film or a glass jar to create the effect of a greenhouse.
  • 4) The mini-greenhouse is ventilated daily for at least 10 minutes, water the soil as it dries.
  • 5) After the appearance of this leaf, seedlings need to be planted in small pots.
  • 6) Make them an annual transshipment in large containers.

Sowing Clivia Seeds

It is possible to propagate by seeds, but such plants bloom only for 4-6 years of life.

Rules for boarding and transplanting

Clivia prefers fertile soil rich in humus.

Soil is purchased ready-made or made up independently. To do this, mix:

  • 1 part peat,
  • 1 part humus,
  • 2 parts of turf land.

The soil is diluted with perlite, vermiculite or washed sand. The prepared soil is not moistened, since the dry mixture penetrates better into the voids between the roots.

Important! Before planting, the soil is disinfected.

Some gardeners plant clivia in the soil for orchids. According to their observations, this contributes to good ventilation of the root system and stimulates growth and flowering.

Transplantation of adult plants can be approached at the beginning of the dormant period.

Clivia transplants

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How to transplant clivia:

  1. A plastic or ceramic pot of conical shape and a sufficient size is selected.
  2. Pour a drainage layer of small pebbles, expanded clay or broken brick to the bottom of the tank. The height of the layer depends on the size of the container (usually 1-3 cm). Pour a small layer of ready soil.
  3. Humidify the soil under the plant and carefully remove the roots along with the old soil.
  4. If transshipment is done, then the earthen lump is placed in a new container and fresh soil is poured.
  5. When transplanting, the old soil is shaken off, the roots are carefully inspected, and if necessary, damaged ones are removed. You can separate the children if they are strong enough (they have 4-5 permanent leaves). Slices on the roots are sprinkled with powdered coal powder, then they should dry for 30 minutes.
  6. Put the roots in a pot and fill it with soil so that the soil does not cover the base of the leaves.
  7. Water the plant, remove excess moisture from the pallet and leave it in a place suitable for surviving a dormant period.

Experienced growers recommend transplanting adult clivia 1 time in 2-4 years.

Clivia is an unpretentious flower, caring for it is simple.

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